Rosette from cap of Prince Philip II (1573-1618)

The rosette with a single large diamond set on an openwork frame is characterised by lightness and clarity of composition. The bold curves of Schweifwerk forms are juxtaposed with stylised floral motifs, alluding to tulips and lilies. The colour scheme is dominated by intense red, blue, green and white. The rosette is crowned with a high canopy with walls decorated with nursery enamel and finished with a lambrequin at the bottom. It belongs to the set of thirteen jewels which, together with the aigrette, decorated the cap of the Pomeranian Duke Francis I. In the second half of the 16th century, it became fashionable to decorate the brims of hats with a row of rose-shaped jewels. It was connected to the fashion of that time to sew on small jewellery elements on clothes called dress jewels or trinkets. Rosettes were fastened at regular intervals on the brims or chained together with earrings and hooks, as in the case of the jewels of Francis I excavated from the crypt of Szczecin Castle Church. The Pomeranian duke's rosettes are a unique set of jewels, as original Renaissance hat ornaments preserved in a set are rare.

Monika Frankowska-Makała