Rosette from cap of Prince Philip II (1573-1618)

The set of rosettes adorning the cap of Duke Francis I of Pomerania consisted of a sizeable rhomboid aggravation set with diamonds and smaller jewels in two types: a small diamond surrounded by four pearls and with a single diamond in a large cast. All the rosettes were spatially composed of light, openwork Schweifwerk forms and stylised floral motifs, decorated with many enamel shades. The Schweifwerk ornament was derived from ferrule and scrollwork decoration but with softened edges and thickened ends. It appeared in the 1670s among goldsmiths and jewellers and became widespread through ornamental patterns. Openwork, a light ornament with intricate interlacing forms, was often used in jewel frames. It was decorated with enamel and formed a colourful background for studding, i.e., surface decoration with precious stones and pearls. Schweifwerk jewels were often combined with decoration in coloured enamel, i.e., delicate patterns made in the champlevé enamel technique. Decoration of this type can also be found on the rosettes and an aigrette of Duke Francis I.

Monika Frankowska-Makała