Rosette from cap of Prince Philip II (1573-1618)

Two nearly identical rosettes with single diamonds were found after the Second World War, during the cleaning of a crypt in the basement of the Castle Church in Szczecin, the burial place of the Pomeranian dukes. The first was discovered in 1946, while sifting debris lying on the floor, the other - two years later, during the cleaning of the sarcophagi.The rosettes were identified as Philip II's jewels, compared to lost the Duke's posthumous image, known from archive photography and dating from 1618, which had been stored in the castle church in Szczecin until the outbreak of war. The brim of Philip II's cap shows a magnificent set of jewels consisting of a central rhomboidal clasp, ornamented with five diamonds, and alternating rosettes with four pearls or a single diamond. The two surviving jewels are characterised by a refined Mannerist composition and delicate designs in grooved enamel technique. At this research stage, it is impossible to identify the author of the jewel, but the quality of artistry indicates that it belonged to prominent German goldsmiths of the early 17th century.The decoration of hats and caps with jewels fixed around the brim became fashionable in the second half of the 16th century and was popular also in the first decades of the 17th century. Also called 'trinkets', rosettes were pinned up at regular intervals or chained together using the eyelets and hooks on the back. According to the description of the costume in the account of the funeral ceremony of Philip II, his cap was decorated with '...a ribbon on the brim splendidly decorated with 17 large gold rosettes connected in a row, with beautiful diamonds and large pearls, and with a black plume...'*

Monika Frankowska-Makała

*Die Personalien und Leichen-Processionen der Herzoge von Pommern und ihrer Angehörigen aus den Jahren 1560 bis 1663, ges. v. U. von Behr Negendank-Semlow, J. von Bohlen-Bohlendorf, Halle 1869, s. 291-292.