Elegant Men and Women

For centuries, what was worn was primarily a testimony to the position that a person occupied in society - clothing was treated as a message to others. So what did the costumes say about their owners, from the 17th century to the beginning of the 20th century? It's time to take a closer look at it.

Created by:

Renata Pernak

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17th and 18th Century

Nobleman's Attire

A nobleman would certainly disagree with the statement that one should not judge a person by their attire. On the contrary, they would openly and without unnecessary courtesy assess others based on their clothing.

Ubiory szlachty z `Album Polonais`

Museum of King Jan III's Palace at Wilanów

A nobleman as if painted

The traditional attire worn by noblemen was called the Polish costume. It gained extraordinary popularity in the 17th and 18th centuries.

Its basic elements included the żupan (a long gown-like robe) and the kontusz (a type of cloak with slit sleeves) fastened with a fabric belt (kontusz sash). Leather high boots were worn on the feet. A saber, known as a karabela, was attached to the belt. And since noblemen were prone to quarrels and disputes, the saber was often drawn to settle conflicts.

Ubiory szlachty z `Album Polonais`

Museum of King Jan III's Palace at Wilanów

The depicted gentlemen are undoubtedly dressed in national attire. However, their example shows that besides certain fixed elements, there were many variations of it, including in terms of colors.

Other important elements that complemented the nobleman's appearance, alongside the clothing, were a long, curled mustache and closely cropped hair.

Ubiory szlachty z `Album Polonais`

Museum of King Jan III's Palace at Wilanów

Kontusz belt

National Museum in Lublin

Kontusz belt

National Museum in Lublin

Richly Girded

An ornate belt was a traditional element of the Polish costume, often long enough to wrap around the waist several times, even reaching up to four meters in length.

The belts were often wide as well. This was because a single belt could have various patterns, and depending on how it was folded, a different section would be displayed. Crimson, or dark red, belts were worn during times of war, while golden ones were worn in times of peace.

Kontusz belt

National Museum in Lublin

The belts were made from luxurious fabrics such as silk and were often embellished with gold or silver thread. This custom of belt-making originated from the East, as initially the belts were imported from India, Persia, and Turkey. Over time, belt workshops called "persjarnie" also emerged in Poland to produce these belts.

Saphiano shoes

National Museum in Lublin

You will recognize him by his boots

High boots were an important element of the Polish costume.

The part covering the calf, known as the cholewka, was made of goatskin called safian, dyed in red or yellow. Sometimes the leather was adorned with gold embroidery. The owner of such footwear could proudly showcase them. Anyone who encountered him immediately knew they were dealing with an important and wealthy person. Hence the saying "to know a man by his boots" – a single glance at the boots was enough to assess the social status of their owner.

Saphiano shoes

National Museum in Lublin

The showcased boots have embroidered floral patterns. These include peony flowers, tulips, and smaller forget-me-not flowers.

Of course, such expensive boots were worn only for important ceremonies and events. On a daily basis, even a wealthy nobleman would wear less decorative footwear, although still made of leather.

Saphiano shoes

National Museum in Lublin

17th and 18th Century

A Weakness for Novelties

Not everyone remained loyal to Polish attire, often exposing themselves to criticism from tradition-bound nobles.

Zasławski Ostrogski Władysław Dominik (zm.1656) - portret

Museum of King Jan III's Palace at Wilanów

Zasławski Ostrogski Władysław Dominik (zm.1656) - portret

Museum of King Jan III's Palace at Wilanów

(Un)manly Bows?

Apparently, when young Władysław went abroad for his studies, his father warned him not to abandon what was Polish and to avoid European novelties. The presented painting is tangible proof that the son did not take these advice to heart.

Upon returning to Poland from his journey to Italy, France, and the Netherlands, Władysław posed for a portrait in an outfit that was, to put it delicately, considered tasteless.

Zasławski Ostrogski Władysław Dominik (zm.1656) - portret

Museum of King Jan III's Palace at Wilanów

– Who has ever seen someone adorned with lace and bows posing for a portrait! – thundered the noblemen.

However, the younger generation, especially when it came to fashion, increasingly embraced foreign novelties, causing headaches for their parents.

Władysław IV (1595-1648) - portret

Museum of King Jan III's Palace at Wilanów

A Manifest Costume

Behold, by the grace of God, the King of Poland ... in Swedish attire.

Władysław IV reigned over Poland in the first half of the 17th century. He came from the Swedish Vasa dynasty. Although the Swedes deprived the Polish Vasa line of their right to the Swedish throne, Władysław IV, like his father, stubbornly titled himself as the King of Sweden as well.

Władysław IV (1595-1648) - portret

Museum of King Jan III's Palace at Wilanów

The loss of roots, or perhaps primarily political influence, was incredibly painful. The king manifested his ties to his ancestral homeland through his attire, such as a black outfit with a large white lace collar and matching cuffs.

Władysław IV Vasa eagerly embraced fashion novelties from different countries. Hence, in other portraits, we can see him wearing, among others, Spanish attire.

Władysław IV (1595-1648) - portret

Museum of King Jan III's Palace at Wilanów

17th and 18th Century

And where are the women?

Women, more often than men, succumbed to European fashion trends. As a result, they were often criticized and even ridiculed.

Potockie: Aleksandra (zm.1783) i Izabela (zm.1831) - portret

Museum of King Jan III's Palace at Wilanów

Costly Fashion

Following the latest trends and importing beautiful dresses mainly from Paris was incredibly expensive. Only the wealthiest ladies could afford such extravagance. This, in turn, made it easy to assess a woman's wealth based on her attire.

Potockie: Aleksandra (zm.1783) i Izabela (zm.1831) - portret

Museum of King Jan III's Palace at Wilanów

Gentlemen openly criticized such following of fashion, and above all, abandoning Polish attire. They brought up practical arguments:

"What folly it is to walk around in silks and lace in a country where it rains or has freezing winters all the time! Everything is delicate, and one has to keep buying new things!" They pointed out these reasons not without cause, as they were usually the ones bearing the costs of such purchases.

Some also saw moral obstacles. Is it appropriate for a woman to walk around with a low neckline exposed? Isn't there too much freedom prevailing in this regard?

Over time, French fashion from the royal court and the capital city began to spread throughout Poland – there was no turning back.

Potockie: Aleksandra (zm.1783) i Izabela (zm.1831) - portret

Museum of King Jan III's Palace at Wilanów

Vanity

Museum of King Jan III's Palace at Wilanów

Vanity

Museum of King Jan III's Palace at Wilanów

By the dressing table

These four small boxes and the mirror are just a part of a woman's dressing table. This term refers to a place or a small table where a mirror and items used for storing beauty products were placed. The dressing table was a space where a woman could focus on her appearance and prepare herself for a public appearance. In the past, the dressing table was also referred to as a "gotowalnia" – from the word "preparation", for example, for going out.

Vanity

Museum of King Jan III's Palace at Wilanów

In the 18th century, women underwent various procedures that may seem astonishing today.

First and foremost, a pale complexion was considered ideal, so several layers of light powder were applied to the face. A rosy blush was desired on the cheeks, and some ladies achieved it by pinching their cheeks discreetly. However, this method was inconvenient and provided a temporary effect. Therefore, more daring ladies resorted to ... beetroot for this purpose. Vodka or beer mixtures were also used for skincare.

As for hair growth, a mixture of wine and mouse droppings was recommended. It's understandable that just the thought of it could make one's hair stand on end.

19th century

Bourgeois style

The 19th century was a time of rapid urban development, mainly due to industrialization. Fashion followed the pace of life. The new garments were meant to be stylish but also allow for easy movement through the streets, for example, to conduct business affairs.

Portrait of Carl Ludwig Friedrich von Eickstedt-Peterswaldt

National Museum in Szczecin

Portrait of Carl Ludwig Friedrich von Eickstedt-Peterswaldt

National Museum in Szczecin

Almost comfortable

The man depicted in the painting is posing in an outfit that was extremely popular in the mid-19th century. The long black coat is called a frock coat. Gentlemen would wear it over a waistcoat and a white shirt. The shirt had a standing collar, which was often tied with a scarf, for example. Fashion experts argue that this solution was incredibly uncomfortable. It should be remembered that starching shirts was mandatory at the time. This process involved soaking the garment in a mixture of water and potato starch. It coated the fabric, making it less prone to collecting dust and moisture, while also facilitating stain removal. Unfortunately, a side effect of this process was the stiffness and roughness of the clothing.

Portrait of Carl Ludwig Friedrich von Eickstedt-Peterswaldt

National Museum in Szczecin

Underneath the starched collar of his shirt, our hero proudly displays an order bestowed upon him by the King of Prussia.

Portrait of Louise Brumm

National Museum in Szczecin

Modestly, but with class

Can you determine the social status of this woman by looking at her? You might be surprised to learn that she belongs to one of the wealthiest families in 19th-century Szczecin.

Although her dress is surely made of high-quality materials, its rather somber, dark violet color stands out only slightly against the backdrop. The dress is adorned with delicate embellishments and finishes, such as lace around the neck and wrists, as well as a gold brooch.

Portrait of Louise Brumm

National Museum in Szczecin

The portrait depicts 78-year-old Louise Brumm as a modest and restrained person, yet elegant and stylish at the same time.

The attire might deceive us, but the name of the painter won't. Commissioning a portrait from Hugo Croli undoubtedly must have required a considerable amount of money.

Portrait of Louise Brumm

National Museum in Szczecin

The beginning of the 20th century

In the pace of fashion

One might think that 100 years ago there was already considerable freedom in the way people dressed. However, many rules still applied. These rules changed rapidly, and only those who were well-informed about the latest trends deserved the title of a fashion icon.

Photograph of the Grossmans and Ewa Koralowa

Museum of the history of Polish Jews

The Ideal Hourglass Figure

In the early 20th century, corsets still prevailed in women's fashion. Their purpose was to cinch the waist, making it as narrow as possible. The goal was to achieve a feminine silhouette resembling an hourglass shape.

Photograph of the Grossmans and Ewa Koralowa

Museum of the history of Polish Jews

To achieve such an effect, it was necessary to rely on contrasts.

The upper part of the outfit typically consisted of a white blouse with puffed sleeves, creating the illusion of broader shoulders. The neck and décolletage were not to be exposed but adorned with a standing collar, ruffles, or densely draped fabric. The cinched waist was further emphasized with a belt. To maintain the desired effect, the jacket worn over the blouse had to be very short. The lower part usually consisted of a long and dark skirt, designed to widen the hips.

As for accessories, women often opted for hats and umbrellas.

Photograph of the Grossmans and Ewa Koralowa

Museum of the history of Polish Jews

Roman Potocki

Castle Museum in Łańcut

Roman Potocki

Castle Museum in Łańcut

Ease and elegance in one

Count Roman Potocki's photograph is evidence that good presentation is not just about appearance but also about demeanor. At first glance, one might think that his nonchalant pose was adopted without much thought, and the photo was taken surreptitiously. But is that really the case?

To earn the title of a fashion icon, one must not only be aware of current trends but also add a personal touch to them. Such an individual should give the impression that they do not care about their appearance at all, and their attire was not thoroughly thought out. However, in reality, these are just appearances.

Roman Potocki

Castle Museum in Łańcut

Roman Potocki was renowned for his good taste

In the photograph, he chose a pose that appeared somewhat nonchalant, even slightly playful. Instead of sitting on a bench, he opted to sit on ... a flowerpot. Without a caption, would you be able to guess that the person depicted is a count? Or perhaps, due to his charming hat and cane, you might think he is an artist? It's a puzzle worthy of a true fashion icon.

Bowler hat

Castle Museum in Łańcut

Hats off the heads!

Melon hat, also known as a bowler hat, is a small men's hat that gets its Polish name from its shape resembling a melon. Similarly, in French and German, the name refers to its shape. However, the English name "bowler hat" pays tribute to its creator, William Bowler. Invented in the 19th century, the melon hat gained tremendous popularity in the early years of the next century, especially among English officials.

Bowler hat

Castle Museum in Łańcut

One distinctive feature of the melon hat is its small, rounded crown with a raised brim. The term "crown" in the context of headwear refers to the part that does not fit closely to the head but rather encircles it.

Interestingly, the fashion for melon hats displaced the older top hats, which were tall cylindrical hats. Over time, top hats were considered impractical and susceptible to damage, such as creasing. The small melon hat seemed to be a solution to these issues.

Bowler hat

Castle Museum in Łańcut

XXI century

Do we pay less or more attention to our clothing today than before?
Do we notice the appearance of people we meet?
What can we deduce from the clothing of others?
Is fashion an important aspect of our lives?

Elegant Men and Women

Dictionary of terms:

The bourgeoisie – a social group that emerged in the Middle Ages - lived in cities and was subject to municipal law. The townspeople were mostly traders and craftsmen. From the nineteenth century, the term "bourgeoisie" was used to describe all city dwellers or - less frequently - the wealthiest.

Netherlands – The historic name for the North Sea area that includes what is today Belgium, the Netherlands and Luxembourg.

Nobility – in the former Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth it was a social group that enjoyed many privileges. A nobleman, i.e. a representative of the nobility, owned the land, and his children could inherit it from him. His high position was evidenced by the fact that he participated in the election of the ruler.

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Elegant Men and Women

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Ubiory szlachty z `Album Polonais`

Ubiory szlachty z `Album Polonais`

Kontusz belt

Kontusz belt

Saphiano shoes

Saphiano shoes

Zasławski Ostrogski Władysław Dominik (zm.1656) - portret

Zasławski Ostrogski Władysław Dominik (zm.1656) - portret

Władysław IV (1595-1648) - portret

Władysław IV (1595-1648) - portret

Potockie: Aleksandra (zm.1783) i Izabela (zm.1831) - portret

Potockie: Aleksandra (zm.1783) i Izabela (zm.1831) - portret

Vanity

Vanity

Portrait of Carl Ludwig Friedrich von Eickstedt-Peterswaldt

Portrait of Carl Ludwig Friedrich von Eickstedt-Peterswaldt

Portrait of Louise Brumm

Portrait of Louise Brumm

Photograph of the Grossmans and Ewa Koralowa

Photograph of the Grossmans and Ewa Koralowa

Roman Potocki

Roman Potocki

Bowler hat

Bowler hat

Elegant Men and Women

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